When NC Eat & Play Magazine‘s Editor-At-Large, Megan Nichols, began working on the May issue which highlights moms, it was the perfect opportunity to spotlight Preeti Waas, award-winning chef and owner of Cheeni in Durham.
For Megan, it wasn’t only because of the beautiful businesses Preeti created that foodies and the culinary elite praise her for. It’s much simpler than that. Preeti is a mom with two wonderful daughters that she adores. This comes through if you’re following her social media and have the opportunity to meet them in person.
It may not be a surprise that a talented chef known for comforting and loving dishes from her native land would be so motherly, but that’s exactly why Megan wanted to spotlight Preeti. When Megan met up with Preeti and her daughters, Ellie and Amy, for the photoshoot, the Waas family bond was immediately felt. More importantly, the daughters’ admiration for their mom couldn’t be contained.
It’s moments like this that Megan loves sharing. The Waas family loves what they do and they love doing it together.
From Her Daughters
I can still remember being asked to choose my favorite out of all my mother’s baked goods by a local reporter when I was five years old growing up in Oklahoma with my mum’s first restaurant. It was the most difficult question I had ever been asked because I loved them all. Now, I regularly describe my favorite dishes of hers to patrons at Cheeni. My mother has taught me how to be passionate – and slightly snobbish – about food. She has a special connection to those she feeds and takes care of like her own, whether they’re a longtime friend or complete stranger. Every person gets a smile, an attentive gaze, and the genuine warm appreciation of a mother getting to do what she loves.
Choosing to come back to Cheeni and seeing that passion return in both my sister and myself has been a special experience as we all proudly connect to our heritage together. Most of all, my mother has taught me how to keep going when you don’t know how you could possibly work another day: “One step at a time.”
Ellie Waas
Amy Waas
“I can confidently say that my mum has always been my role model. Personally and professionally, I wouldn’t be half the person I am without her guidance, comfort, nourishment, and complete commitment to being a mother—an amazing one—to me and my sister. I was lucky enough to grow up working with my mum, but at this stage in our lives, I think I am incredibly fortunate to have so much time to learn and grow with her guidance once again. It’s been a beautiful, special thing to watch the life she has always wanted, one in which she has a community, a place to call her own, and the closeness of family (both biological and chosen), finally become more of a reality to her.”
In Her Words
I know you started as a business owner in Tulsa, OK, where you made American baked goods before shifting back to your culinary roots. What brought you to the Triangle?
We moved to the area in September 2011. It felt like we had outgrown Tulsa, and my husband had better opportunities here in the tech sector.
What do you love most about the area?
I love that the Triangle feels like the largest little small town. This was especially true eleven years ago when we moved. The lush greenery, proximity to both the beach and the mountains, some of the finest universities, etc. Personally, I was heartened to find that the population here was more metropolitan, well-traveled, and hungry for new experiences. That gave me the courage to venture into foodservice again, because Tulsa was not a good experience in that way for me.
What is it like to be a woman in business here?
I’ve learned to keep my circle close and not to be naive enough to think that everyone has your best interests at heart. It’s important to be strong enough to stand up for your convictions and be willing to accept constructive criticism.
Tell us about being a mom and a successful business owner.
Being a successful business owner means different things to different people. For some, it’s ‘looking’ successful. For others, it is having the time to pick their children up from school. For yet others, it means relying on a partner to take care of the household and children, so they can provide financially. Decide for your yourself what success looks like and work towards that. For me, success is working with my daughters, in a space that we have worked hard to create as a (hopefully) sustainable model for all our staff.
What’s the biggest impact your children have had on your life?
My children have taught me the value that I bring to this world. And that there is no fiercer love.
What advice would you give to moms navigating motherhood for the first time?
Babies don’t come with manuals, but mothers do develop very powerful instincts – trust them. Cultivate your community of mothers, the women that you trust with your children, and lean on them. Provide them with the same support in return. This will reap invaluable benefits for all of you and your children.
Now, let’s talk about Cheeni. How did this become your gift to the world?
With Cheeni, I finally felt confident and comfortable enough with myself as an immigrant woman to cook the cuisine of my homeland. It felt too personal and nerve-racking before that.
Why did you choose your location?
The Durham location was serendipitous – I never imagined myself in Durham, but being offered that prime spot – fully equipped! – was something too good to pass up. Plus, it offered what North Raleigh lacks, which is visibility and foot traffic.
What makes Cheeni unique?
Cheeni is unique because it is not ‘Indian cuisine’ treated as a monolith, but cuisine from various regions of India, based on my personal experiences and upbringing. All cooked from scratch and in small batches, with non commodity ingredients, which is unusual. When guests come to Cheeni, they can expect to feel like they are in someone’s home, being taken care of accordingly and served food cooked with care and intention.
How is the business going and what are your hopes for it in the near future and beyond?
Business is not following any known patterns and that is something even seasoned restaurant operators are saying to me. Which of course makes it much harder to staff, prep, etc. But, we are doing the best we can. The most hurtful part of this entire endeavor is to work so goshdarned hard and still get eviscerated online from people who have no idea what it takes.
What’s next?
My motto is, ‘never say never’ – there might be opportunities around the bend too good to pass up, who knows. In the near future, my hope is to sustain this model for a restaurant where nobody works more than 8-10 hour shifts, everybody makes at least $16.00 per hour, everybody’s meals are on the house, nobody clocks out for breaks or lunch, and most of all, there is dignity and respect in the workplace.
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